Seixal
A village on a headland with black volcanic sea stacks off it, and a natural pool tucked under the cliff. Go for the swim, stay for the view back at the mountains.
The region
The north coast, from our door.
Most of Madeira's visitors stay in the south and drive north for the day. Staying here reverses that: the cliffs, the levadas and the sea pools are the near thing, and Funchal is the day trip.
What this side of the island is actually like
The north coast is the green, wet, dramatic side. Clouds gather against the mountains and burn off again, often within the same morning — if it is grey where you are, it is often sunny a short drive away, and the other way round.
The sea here is Atlantic and honest about it: people swim in the natural pools and the sheltered inlets rather than off long beaches. You will want a car. Roads are good, tunnels are many, and everything on this page is a short drive rather than an expedition.
Near enough to go before breakfast
Porto Moniz
The volcanic pools everyone comes north to see — lava basins the Atlantic refills at every tide. Early morning is the quiet hour.
Fanal
Ancient laurel trees on a high plateau, usually with cloud pouring through them and cows grazing between. It is the strangest, quietest place on the island.
Ribeira da Janela
A valley that opens straight onto the sea, with terraces climbing both sides of it and a levada walk starting near the top.
The coast road east
The coast road east, cut into the cliff — volcanic caves and a small centre at São Vicente, worth an hour when the weather turns.
Porto Moniz at dusk.
A local habit
Poncha, and the bar that makes it.
Sugar cane spirit, honey, and whatever citrus is in season, beaten with a wooden mexelote. Every bar on this coast makes it slightly differently and every local will tell you which one is right. Ask us and we will point you at ours.
Practical
- Essential
- A car
- April to October
- Best months for the pools
- All year, bring layers
- Levadas